Whipper

5.10 trad · 70 ft · ★★★☆

First ascent: Jay Smith, Paul Crawford, and Jim Bridwell, 1988

Description

This route is a good line with a little bit of chunky rock. Climb up to the roof (moderate) through the roof (less moderate) and pull the lip of the roof (moderately difficult, crux) and then continue up the crack to the anchors. The protection is solid, but the crack is not very smooth. I did not tape and I ended up bloody. Tape up!

Location

This is the left-most route in the sunnyside crags. About 20 meters to the right of the Cold September Corner area, below a good sized roof, and to the right of it's apex, you can see a hands to wide-hands crack splitting the roof and going up above it to a set of webbing anchors. This is the climb.

Protection

A standard rack of nuts and cams to 3.5"

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

More routes on Sunnyside Crags

Open the Red Rock climbing map · Is the rock dry? Live conditions