Spring Break
5.11+ trad · 70 ft · ★★★★
First ascent: Paul Van Betten, Sal Mamusia
Description
When hiking into Icebox pay attention to the north side of the canyon. You will pass several small caves and roofs before reaching varnished rock. Keep going - Spring Break lies slightly west of the Magellanic Cloud/Cold September Corner area on a rectangular face of dark rock immediately left of a huge right facing corner capped by chossy roofs. There is a ledge atop this face with a communal anchor at a large horizintal break where the rock becomes less neat and more cruddy. Spring Break ascends the center of the rectangular face following a thin crack system and horizontals. P1, .11+: A little grunt off of the deck will get you to an inviting horizontal crack/jug where you can assess exactly how far you might fall in the very near future. Proceed, following the thin vertical crack through the first roof, cramming gear wherever possible. More gear, more climbing lead you to a second roof, after which is a very much appreciated horizontal, rest and relaxation included. More climbing, more gear (trend to the right, back toward the middle of the face and straight up at the last thin crack), deep breath, clip anchors, rap with a rope, sit in the sun, have a snack or a drink of water. A nap is also acceptable. This can easily be TR'd by leading Mister Masters (9+) around the corner to the east. Technical, balancy, sustained, intriguing and all around enjoyable climbing on this one.
Protection
Figuring out the protection definitely enhances the experience of this climb. A standard rack with a few extra medium to small cams will do. TCU's are also helpful.
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
Ranked in
More routes on Sunnyside Crags
- Water Dog 5.10d
- Pit Bull 5.10b
- Starless and Bible Black 5.9+
- Tie me Tightly 5.10-
- Cold September Corner 5.8
- Aesop’s Arete 5.9
- Mister Masters 5.9+
- Whipper 5.10
- Mercedes 5.11a/b
- Gotham City 5.12a
- Van Allen Belt 5.7 R
- Magellanic Cloud 5.9
- Meteor 5.11
- Shady Ladies 5.7
- Hot August Night 5.11- PG13
- Bad Day at Black Rocks 5.10b
- Blast From the Past 5.10-
- Whiplash 5.11
- Adapt and Overcome 5.8 PG13
- Mister Freeze's Face 5.10d
- Tarantula 5.12-
- Fork In The Road 5.8
Open the Red Rock climbing map · Is the rock dry? Live conditions