Starless and Bible Black
5.9+ trad · 100 ft · ★★★☆
Route 11 of 23 from left to right on Sunnyside Crags, with Bad Day at Black Rocks on its left and Aesop’s Arete on its right. Sunnyside Crags has 23 routes, from 5.7 R to 5.12a; 14 are harder, and 1 other is the same grade.
First ascent: unknown
Description
Starless and Bible Black starts up good varnished holds to a short left leaning seam and onto a ledge just below the crescent shaped corner. Climb the corner and face to the right eventually joining the last 15 feet of Van Allen Belt to the communal anchor on the ledge. Starless and Bible Black offers fun moves on excellent rock with good pro.
Location
30 feet left of Magellanic Cloud around the corner, just left of Aesop’s Arete
Protection
gear to 2” with nuts
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Sunnyside Crags
- Water Dog 5.10d
- Pit Bull 5.10b
- Spring Break 5.11+
- Tie me Tightly 5.10-
- Cold September Corner 5.8
- Aesop’s Arete 5.9
- Mister Masters 5.9+
- Whipper 5.10
- Mercedes 5.11a/b
- Gotham City 5.12a
- Van Allen Belt 5.7 R
- Magellanic Cloud 5.9
- Meteor 5.11
- Shady Ladies 5.7
- Hot August Night 5.11- PG13
- Bad Day at Black Rocks 5.10b
- Blast From the Past 5.10-
- Whiplash 5.11
- Adapt and Overcome 5.8 PG13
- Mister Freeze's Face 5.10d
- Tarantula 5.12-
- Fork In The Road 5.8