Mister Masters

5.9+ trad · 70 ft · ★★★☆

Route 4 of 23 from left to right on Sunnyside Crags, with Gotham City on its left and Fork In The Road on its right. Sunnyside Crags has 23 routes, from 5.7 R to 5.12a; 14 are harder, and 1 other is the same grade.

First ascent: Paul Van Betten, Danny Meyers; 1987

Description

Start just left of the obvious dihedral to the left of Mercedes and climb the steep crack with jugs till it slabs out. The anchors aren't visible from the ground nor the end of the steep climbing. You then break left on the very dark, polished face. You can toprope three other routes once you hit the anchors, which are Gothom City, Spring Break, and Tarantula. All of which are hard trad lines.

Protection

Standard rack of cams, HB offsets are nice.

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

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