Bad Day at Black Rocks

5.10b trad · 70 ft · ★★☆☆

First ascent: Randy Marsh, Greg Child 1989

Description

This is a fun route. It's a bit of a one-move wonder - the crux is a short boulder problem - but the moves are fun. Start below two bolts low on the face left of an arete. Climb up the black face on small holds past the bolts (crux), then continue with easier moves up the face to a chain anchor (the same anchor as for Tie Me Tightly). According to the Brock-McMillen guide, one can climb a second 5.8 pitch to the top of the cliff.

Location

Bad Day at Black Rocks is on the far right edge of the wall right of the Mercedes corner (right of Mister Masters). This route is 60 feet left of Van Allen Belt and 15 feet left of a small cave.

Protection

2 bolts protect the crux; small nuts and aliens protect the upper face.

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

More routes on Sunnyside Crags

• Water Dog 5.10d
• Pit Bull 5.10b
• Starless and Bible Black 5.9+
• Spring Break 5.11+
• Tie me Tightly 5.10-
• Cold September Corner 5.8
• Aesop’s Arete 5.9
• Mister Masters 5.9+
• Whipper 5.10
• Mercedes 5.11a/b
• Gotham City 5.12a
• Van Allen Belt 5.7 R
• Magellanic Cloud 5.9
• Meteor 5.11
• Shady Ladies 5.7
• Hot August Night 5.11- PG13
• Blast From the Past 5.10-
• Whiplash 5.11
• Adapt and Overcome 5.8 PG13
• Mister Freeze's Face 5.10d
• Tarantula 5.12-
• Fork In The Road 5.8

Open the Red Rock climbing map · Is the rock dry? Live conditions