Hot August Night

5.11- PG13 trad · 90 ft · ★★★☆

First ascent: Tony Bubb, Alex Thayer, 3/06

Description

This route is just left of Cold September Corner and almost certainly has been top-roped before, at least in part. However, we climbed an entire line on lead, sharing only 2 meters of climbing with the nearby Cold September Corner. A few meters left of that route there is a HUGE horizontal flake about 2.4 meters off of the ground; a man of average height should be able to just grab this while stretching. Clasp this flake and pull onto it, then up into a big pocket, then up and left further to a bit of crack. This crack, about 3meters up, will take a 2-2.5" cam placement as your first gear. Jam this and pull to upright above the first overhang (bouldery 5.10). From there place more gear and continue straight up on intermittent crack systems to reach a blank face just below the main roof of Cold September Corner. Place gear and climb the thin moves to intercept the left side of the huge roof/slot (5.10, PG13) then climb out the left side of the roof (only 5.8) and continue up above on more cracks. The crux of the route comes at a 3rd roof, which is small and pulls through on some semi-positive holds, albeit on small holds. Get under the roof to an amazing under-cling pocket and protect the next few moves with a .5 to .75 cam. Then reach high and right for a nickel-sized, diamond shaped hold and crimp ,then pull up and over the roof on a positive but strange pinch. Sequence will matter. (5.11, good gear). Finish directly upward to level with the Cold September anchors, then traverse to the right to reach them and lower off.

Location

Locate this route by finding Cold September Corner and looking a few meters left of it, obvious jugs at a roof a few meters up mark the start. Step back and picture a line from those to the left end of the Cold Sept. roof, then up directly from there past a 3rd roof at a big pocket at some inset cracks and flakes.

Protection

A standard light rack to 3". A 2-2.5" cam is critical for the bottom crux, the thin face crux is a way above small nuts or a few cams in a horizontal (PG13), and a few smaller cams protect the hardest move 70 feet up.

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

More routes on Sunnyside Crags

• Water Dog 5.10d
• Pit Bull 5.10b
• Starless and Bible Black 5.9+
• Spring Break 5.11+
• Tie me Tightly 5.10-
• Cold September Corner 5.8
• Aesop’s Arete 5.9
• Mister Masters 5.9+
• Whipper 5.10
• Mercedes 5.11a/b
• Gotham City 5.12a
• Van Allen Belt 5.7 R
• Magellanic Cloud 5.9
• Meteor 5.11
• Shady Ladies 5.7
• Bad Day at Black Rocks 5.10b
• Blast From the Past 5.10-
• Whiplash 5.11
• Adapt and Overcome 5.8 PG13
• Mister Freeze's Face 5.10d
• Tarantula 5.12-
• Fork In The Road 5.8

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