Gotham City

5.12a trad · 90 ft · ★★★★

Route 3 of 23 from left to right on Sunnyside Crags, with Spring Break on its left and Mister Masters on its right. Sunnyside Crags has 23 routes, from 5.7 R to 5.12a; this is the hardest.

First ascent: Paul Van Betten, Robert Finlay 1987

Description

Start at a steep, pocketed face just behind a tree. The climb is steep and follow discontinuous cracks up the face. Once the angle kicks back, head up and left to the fixed anchors above Spring Break.

Location

Begin 5 feet left of Mister Masters and 5 feet right of Spring Break, just behind a tree.

Protection

Small gear up to a #2 Friend.

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

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