Adapt and Overcome
5.8 PG13 trad · 100 ft · ★★★☆
First ascent: FKA Zachary Loman and Craig Streit
Description
Shares the anchors with Shady Ladies, Van Allen Belt and Magellenic Cloud and combines pieces of all three. Our intent was to avoid the unprotectable start of Van Allen Belt, and bring the R rating down to a PG13. Start is the same as Shady Ladies, get a piece of pro and then begin climbing up and to the left (instead of continuing up Shady Ladies crack) onto Magellenic Cloud, at the bulge in the middle of MC go left instead of right to put yourself onto Van Allen Belt, work around the corner and up to the same ledge/anchor. PG13 rating is due to tricky pro at the top (same as V.A.B.), and because the route works around a corner, and the potential to get the rope stuck is high (as I did while run out above a C3 0.2 on the FA). Go light on pro and extend just about everything.
Location
Same start as Shady Ladies. This is just up canyon (climbers left) from the two large roofs.
Protection
Doubles to #2 should do it. You can find a place for a number #3 C4 near the top. Top is tricky to protect. Runners/alpine draws essential.
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
Ranked in
More routes on Sunnyside Crags
- Water Dog 5.10d
- Pit Bull 5.10b
- Starless and Bible Black 5.9+
- Spring Break 5.11+
- Tie me Tightly 5.10-
- Cold September Corner 5.8
- Aesop’s Arete 5.9
- Mister Masters 5.9+
- Whipper 5.10
- Mercedes 5.11a/b
- Gotham City 5.12a
- Van Allen Belt 5.7 R
- Magellanic Cloud 5.9
- Meteor 5.11
- Shady Ladies 5.7
- Hot August Night 5.11- PG13
- Bad Day at Black Rocks 5.10b
- Blast From the Past 5.10-
- Whiplash 5.11
- Mister Freeze's Face 5.10d
- Tarantula 5.12-
- Fork In The Road 5.8
Open the Red Rock climbing map · Is the rock dry? Live conditions