Van Allen Belt

5.7 R trad · 50 ft · ★★★☆

First ascent: Unknown, 1980s

Description

This is a decent route, but a somewhat tricky lead for the grade, with some loose rock. Start in the very smooth, varnished dihedral about 40 feet left of the Shady Ladies corner, and 20 feet left of Magellanic Cloud. The initial moves are a little tricky, and there is no protection for about 20 feet or so, hence the serious rating. It's not really too bad. Later on, there potential for your rope to get stuck in a crack and cause SERIOUS drag, so watch for that. The last moves are on some crumbly rock with less-than-ideal protection. End at the communal belay ledge.

Protection

Standard trad rack

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

More routes on Sunnyside Crags

• Water Dog 5.10d
• Pit Bull 5.10b
• Starless and Bible Black 5.9+
• Spring Break 5.11+
• Tie me Tightly 5.10-
• Cold September Corner 5.8
• Aesop’s Arete 5.9
• Mister Masters 5.9+
• Whipper 5.10
• Mercedes 5.11a/b
• Gotham City 5.12a
• Magellanic Cloud 5.9
• Meteor 5.11
• Shady Ladies 5.7
• Hot August Night 5.11- PG13
• Bad Day at Black Rocks 5.10b
• Blast From the Past 5.10-
• Whiplash 5.11
• Adapt and Overcome 5.8 PG13
• Mister Freeze's Face 5.10d
• Tarantula 5.12-
• Fork In The Road 5.8

Open the Red Rock climbing map · Is the rock dry? Live conditions