The Secret World of Arrietty
5.11b trad · 140 ft · ★★★☆
Route 5 of 14 from left to right on Black Orpheus Amphitheater, with Black Ops on its left and Plate of Fate on its right. Black Orpheus Amphitheater has 14 routes, from 5.6 R to 5.13d; 6 are harder, and 1 other is the same grade.
First ascent: FA: Unknown.FFA: Joshua Janes & Josh Thompson - Spring, 2012
Description
The Secret World of Arrietty climbs the arch-feature immediately left of the Plate of Fate, pulling through the massive yawning roof right at it's widest. This is a great new route with wild and burly climbing, mostly excellent rock, and great pro. No move is harder than 10d, probably, but the cumulative effects of placing gear and sussing out the sequences on the fly are quite taxing - though knee barring and hand jamming skills can take the sting out of it. Super fun! Beginning immediately left of the Plate of Fate, climb the left margin of the namesake plate and, with some difficulty, pull up onto better rock above. From here the route follows a vague seam/corner passing spaced but good gear to a large wedged flake. There is a tricky but bomber cam placement immediately above this flake. Continue via liebacks and kneebars to a strange hole-thingy in the wall above the arch (crucial 0.75 Camalot placement). Pull past this, up and over, to a precarious stance on really nice rock - take some time to catch your breath because it’s about to be game on: Moving left, step back down below the arch, and begin a wild traverse left via underclings, hand jams, and occasional jugs. There’'s not much for feet, but some trickery affords much needed rests before a final, burly reach left to a large, flat hold at the lip of the arch. Mantling onto this might not be the crux...– but it will certainly feel that way. And while things may seem desperate, the pro is good so you must go for it! You must! Once up above the arch, a thin move or two leads to the final station on the Plate of Fate rap route. Nice! Enjoy the bird’'s eye view of your partner struggling as you bring him/her up. Remember, a 70m cord is not long enough to lower to the ground while the rope is still running through all the gear, so rapping off is the way to go.
Protection
2 each blue Alien/0 TCU to 0.5 Camalot 1 each 0.75 to #4 Camalot Wires Lots of long runners 70m cord is a must for descending
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Approach to Black Orpheus Amphitheater — Class 3
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Black Orpheus Amphitheater
- There and Back Again 5.8
- Marijuana 5.11c
- Howl's Moving Castle 5.11c
- Black Ops 5.12a
- Black Baby 5.7
- The Black Widow 5.12
- Eurydice Finish 5.10b PG13
- Offset Corners 5.11b
- Tuscarora 5.12c
- Black Orpheus 5.9+
- Plate of Fate 5.9+
- Administrative Overreach 5.6 R
- The Fortress of Xanadu 5.13d