Black Ops

5.12a trad · 2 pitches · 260 ft · ★★☆☆

Route 4 of 14 from left to right on Black Orpheus Amphitheater, with Howl's Moving Castle on its left and The Secret World of Arrietty on its right. Black Orpheus Amphitheater has 14 routes, from 5.6 R to 5.13d; 2 are harder.

First ascent: FA: Unknown.FFA: Joshua Janes w/ K. McCullough, C. Galitsky (w/ special thanks to M. Ward & D. Sorric) - Winter, 2012

Description

About 100 yards left of Plate of Fate is a long, shallow, white, right-facing corner. Another 20' further left is a low roof. Begin below an oven-sized inset in this roof.

Protection

Single set from small to #2 Camalot with doubles from small to 1". Wires. Aliens or other small, flexible cams are key to protect the crux.

Hikes, approaches and descents

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

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