Marijuana
5.11c trad · 5 pitches · 500 ft · ★★★☆
Route 10 of 14 from left to right on Black Orpheus Amphitheater, with The Fortress of Xanadu on its left and Black Orpheus on its right. Black Orpheus Amphitheater has 14 routes, from 5.6 R to 5.13d; 4 are harder, and 1 other is the same grade.
First ascent: Tom Cecil, Chris Tolin, John Rosholt - 1980's.
Description
Marijuana is an excellent, clean route up the huge brown buttress to the left of Black Orpheus and to the right of the Black Arch Wall. Mostly following interesting corners, the climb is capped by two lovely, testy pitches. It is south facing and offers nice, sunny climbing – perfect for a clear winter day. Approach as for Black Orpheus, but head left across the slabs (may require some exposed easy 5th class) and away from Black Orpheus to reach an indistinct weakness below the left side of the towering buttress above. You may arrive at a small, body-sized cave that is just left of the line and just to the right of a narrow ridge of rock that separates the Black Orpheus side of the amphitheater from the There and Back Again side. About 20' below this cave is a nice ledge and a single bolt which is a good place to begin.
Protection
One each from blue Alien/0 TCU to #2 Camalot. Two each 0.4 and 0.5 Camalots. Wires. 70m rope.
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Approach to Black Orpheus Amphitheater — Class 3
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Black Orpheus Amphitheater
- The Secret World of Arrietty 5.11b
- There and Back Again 5.8
- Howl's Moving Castle 5.11c
- Black Ops 5.12a
- Black Baby 5.7
- The Black Widow 5.12
- Eurydice Finish 5.10b PG13
- Offset Corners 5.11b
- Tuscarora 5.12c
- Black Orpheus 5.9+
- Plate of Fate 5.9+
- Administrative Overreach 5.6 R
- The Fortress of Xanadu 5.13d