Offset Corners
5.11b trad · 90 ft · ★★★☆
Route 13 of 14 from left to right on Black Orpheus Amphitheater, with Eurydice Finish on its left and Administrative Overreach on its right. Black Orpheus Amphitheater has 14 routes, from 5.6 R to 5.13d; 6 are harder, and 1 other is the same grade.
First ascent: Unknown (Possibly Mike Tupper based on the bolt hangers?)
Description
The creative name "Offset Corners" doesn't really do this climb justice. It is a fantastic pitch that is sustained and has two difficult, interesting, and exciting cruxes - one of which is the very last set of moves to a finishing jug. Begin on the SW face of a large brown block (see Location description below) beneath the two left-facing corners. Climb easily up the first corner passing three bolts and gear placements to the corner's end. Move wildly up and right across the face towards the second corner (first crux) and mantle up to a stance in the corner itself. Continue upwards with good gear and two more bolts before making a difficult reach (second crux) at the top to a blind hold. Pull over onto a slabby topout. There is currently no anchor on the top of this formation and finding good gear is difficult (but possible). Descend from the back by scrambling down a chimney and contouring around the west side of the block.
Location
Follow the climbers' trail into Oak Creek Canyon passing underneath the Solar Slab area and eventually dropping down into the wash. Continue in the wash about 200-300 yards and look off to the right (north) side of the canyon: The climb is located on a huge brown block a few hundred feet above the canyon floor. It follows two left facing corners, one on top of the other, on the SW face of this block. Continue much further up canyon than you might think past the block until you reach the Black Orpheus approach. Scramble up the 4th class slab until level with the block and then easily contour back east to the climb.
Protection
Standard rack. There are five bolts protecting this route: Two are 3/8", three are 1/4"; all are in need of replacement. Actually, not all of them are essential and those should probably just be pulled, but there are at least two bolts (those protecting each crux) that are pretty key.
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Approach to Black Orpheus Amphitheater — Class 3
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Black Orpheus Amphitheater
- The Secret World of Arrietty 5.11b
- There and Back Again 5.8
- Marijuana 5.11c
- Howl's Moving Castle 5.11c
- Black Ops 5.12a
- Black Baby 5.7
- The Black Widow 5.12
- Eurydice Finish 5.10b PG13
- Tuscarora 5.12c
- Black Orpheus 5.9+
- Plate of Fate 5.9+
- Administrative Overreach 5.6 R
- The Fortress of Xanadu 5.13d