The Fortress of Xanadu

5.13d trad · 6 pitches · 630 ft · ★★★★

Route 9 of 14 from left to right on Black Orpheus Amphitheater, with Tuscarora on its left and Marijuana on its right. Black Orpheus Amphitheater has 14 routes, from 5.6 R to 5.13d; this is the hardest.

First ascent: FFA: Tom Moulin, Brian Bowman, Chad Umbel. December 2, 2007.

Hikes, approaches and descents

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

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