Howl's Moving Castle
5.11c trad · 4 pitches · 400 ft · ★★☆☆
Route 3 of 14 from left to right on Black Orpheus Amphitheater, with The Black Widow on its left and Black Ops on its right. Black Orpheus Amphitheater has 14 routes, from 5.6 R to 5.13d; 4 are harder, and 1 other is the same grade.
First ascent: FA: Unknown.FFA: Joshua Janes, Josh Thompson, Kathrine McCullough - April, 2012
Description
Howl's Moving Castle tackles the obvious weakness in the massive roof on the right side of the main Black Arch Wall in four short, interesting pitches. This is a good route except for a little loose rock here and there and a brief dirty section. All of this might clean up with traffic, but even in its current state the route offers diverse climbing and fantastic exposure on the last two pitches in particular. Having spent way too much time up there this season, my eye was inevitably drawn towards this line. When we finally made time to check it out, we discovered a bolted anchor halfway up the lower corner, however, there was no evidence of progress beyond the first two pitches - it appeared that whoever had been up there previously stopped beneath the crux roof pitch (I'd love more information if anyone out there knows anything) - so we kept going! What resulted was essentially a ground-up FA of a sweet new line. I led pitches one, two, and four onsight and followed Josh Thompson cleanly on the crux third pitch, returning a few days later to lead every pitch. Begin directly below the left-arching, left-facing corners that form the right side of the main Black Arch Wall. Scrambling up some 4th class to a bushy ledge to begin the first pitch is recommended, but it is possible to begin below this on the more spacious slabs.
Protection
4-5x Blue Aliens/00 TCU's 2x 0.3 - 0.5 Camalots 1x 0.75 - #4 Camalots A few draws/slings No wires necessary
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Approach to Black Orpheus Amphitheater — Class 3
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Black Orpheus Amphitheater
- The Secret World of Arrietty 5.11b
- There and Back Again 5.8
- Marijuana 5.11c
- Black Ops 5.12a
- Black Baby 5.7
- The Black Widow 5.12
- Eurydice Finish 5.10b PG13
- Offset Corners 5.11b
- Tuscarora 5.12c
- Black Orpheus 5.9+
- Plate of Fate 5.9+
- Administrative Overreach 5.6 R
- The Fortress of Xanadu 5.13d