The Black Widow
5.12 trad · 4 pitches · 500 ft · ★★★☆
Route 2 of 14 from left to right on Black Orpheus Amphitheater, with Black Baby on its left and Howl's Moving Castle on its right. Black Orpheus Amphitheater has 14 routes, from 5.6 R to 5.13d; 3 are harder.
First ascent: FA (Pitch 1 & 2): T. Cecil - 1995; FFA (Complete Line): Joshua Janes & Darren Snipes (w/ thanks to Anna Pfaff) - March, 2012
Description
The Black Widow is a route that offers difficult, technical climbing on the first pitch, a fun roof on the second pitch, and an extended boulder problem crux followed by exposed glory climbing on the third pitch. This rig is sure to be sunny, is crowd-free, and is a totally rad rock climb. Just goes to show that great FA’'s in Red Rocks are still out there. Up and right from the top of the approach gully is a pleasant area adorned with sizable, flat boulders. This is beneath a large, black, scoop-like cavity in the wall; begin climbing at the toe of a slabby buttress just left of this cavity.
Protection
Single set from 00 TCU/black Alien to #2 Camalot, wires, enough rope.
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Approach to Black Orpheus Amphitheater — Class 3
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Black Orpheus Amphitheater
- The Secret World of Arrietty 5.11b
- There and Back Again 5.8
- Marijuana 5.11c
- Howl's Moving Castle 5.11c
- Black Ops 5.12a
- Black Baby 5.7
- Eurydice Finish 5.10b PG13
- Offset Corners 5.11b
- Tuscarora 5.12c
- Black Orpheus 5.9+
- Plate of Fate 5.9+
- Administrative Overreach 5.6 R
- The Fortress of Xanadu 5.13d