Velvet Revolver

5.11b trad · 4 pitches · 520 ft · ★★★★

Route 12 of 17 from left to right on The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall, with Twixt Cradle and Stone on its left and Wax Cracks on its right. The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall has 17 routes, from 5.9 to 5.13a PG13; 8 are harder.

First ascent: Tom Moulin, Rob Dezonia - November 2006

Description

Velvet Revolver is an excellent route that compares in quality to anything on the main Black Velvet wall. It has nearly perfect rock, excellent protection, and a dramatic steep pitch that offers great views of all the sheep waiting in line on the established classics to the left.

Location

This route begins from a table-sized ledge down and right of the major chimney system of Twixt Cradle and Stone. You can access this by climbing the first three pitches of that route and then moving up and right - this might be the most enjoyable way. We got here by initially following the approach to the far right end of the terrace (see approach description for The Velveteen Rabbit) and then doing a bushy and sometimes treacherous scramble back left across ledges above the terrace itself (fast but not recommended).

Protection

Single set of cams from tips to #3 Camalot. Doubles from tips to fingers. A full set of wired stoppers. 80m rope.

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

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