Twixt Cradle and Stone
5.10+ trad · 8 pitches · 800 ft · ★★★☆
Route 11 of 17 from left to right on The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall, with Plein Air on its left and Velvet Revolver on its right. The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall has 17 routes, from 5.9 to 5.13a PG13; 13 are harder, and 1 other is the same grade.
First ascent: unknown
Description
Twixt Cradle and Stone is a fantastic option for those seeking a slightly more challenging experience compared to the classic Epinephrine, minus the crowd. This multipitch gem features an exciting mix of chimney, face, and crack climbing on excellent rock. We linked 2,3 and 4,5 and rappelled with 2 70m's.
Location
Look for a large left facing chimney approximately 100ft upstream from Epinephrine.
Protection
Double rack to #3, a single #4. All bolted belays.
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall
- Wax Cracks Extension (Open Project) 5.12b/c
- The Shuffle 5.13a PG13
- The Velvet Tongue 5.12+
- Plein Air 5.11
- Black Mamba 5.10 PG13
- Wax Cracks 5.9
- Ancient Futures 5.12b
- The Velveteen Rabbit 5.12a PG13
- Lone Star 5.11
- Texas Tower Direct 5.12d
- Yellow Rose of Texas 5.11
- Velvet Revolver 5.11b
- Tri Tip 5.11d X
- Great Expectations 5.9 PG13
- Texas Hold 'Em 5.11c
- Texanephrine 5.10d