Ancient Futures
5.12b trad · 6 pitches · 800 ft · ★★★☆
Route 1 of 17 from left to right on The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall, with Lone Star on its right. The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall has 17 routes, from 5.9 to 5.13a PG13; 3 are harder.
First ascent: Dan McQuade & Randal Grandstaff - 1997
Description
Technical and thought-provoking, Ancient Futures is a great rock climb that flirts with Epinephrine but takes a mostly independent line up a beautiful stretch of rock just right of the Black Tower. Begin as for Epi.
Protection
Single set of cams from blue Alien/0 TCU to #3 Camalot, wires, at least a dozen draws/slings, two ropes.
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall
- Wax Cracks Extension (Open Project) 5.12b/c
- The Shuffle 5.13a PG13
- The Velvet Tongue 5.12+
- Plein Air 5.11
- Black Mamba 5.10 PG13
- Wax Cracks 5.9
- The Velveteen Rabbit 5.12a PG13
- Twixt Cradle and Stone 5.10+
- Lone Star 5.11
- Texas Tower Direct 5.12d
- Yellow Rose of Texas 5.11
- Velvet Revolver 5.11b
- Tri Tip 5.11d X
- Great Expectations 5.9 PG13
- Texas Hold 'Em 5.11c
- Texanephrine 5.10d