The Velveteen Rabbit

5.12a PG13 trad · 3 pitches · 270 ft · ★★★★

Route 16 of 17 from left to right on The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall, with Black Mamba on its left and Great Expectations on its right. The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall has 17 routes, from 5.9 to 5.13a PG13; 4 are harder.

First ascent: FA: Unknown (possibly Dave Wonderly?)FFA: Josh Janes

Description

The Velveteen Rabbit is the free version of an old abandoned aid project deep in Black Velvet Canyon. It has three pitches of excellent and varied climbing that build in difficulty to a climactic finish - all played out on great rock.

Location

Just past the start of Epinephrine and the Texas Wall routes lies a long terrace 100’ above the canyon floor. The Velveteen Rabbit starts from the center of this terrace. The east end of the terrace can be accessed by climbing the first (5.7) pitch of Twixt Cradle and Stone which is an obvious wide crack in the unmistakeable left-facing corner just past Epinephrine. Once on the terrace, scramble west 500’, looking for an attractive, varnished right-facing wide crack (Black Mamba); to the right of this is the bolted face of the first pitch of The Velveteen Rabbit. Note: reversing this approach and rapping is the fastest way out at the end of the day. An alternative and faster approach is by way of the far (west) end of this terrace: Continue in the wash for another five minutes past Epinephrine to the point where Corduroy Ridge splits the canyon into two forks. The south fork (left) is followed to access the Western Spaces Wall and the north fork (right) is followed to reach Sick for Toys. Scramble 60’ up the toe of Corduroy Ridge via an exposed and slippery 4th class rib of rock sandwiched between an occasionally wet slide to the left and a bolted slab to the right. Once on the level spot above (this is the very bottom of the south fork of BV Canyon) immediately turn left and scramble 30’ up a 5.0 chimney which deposits you at the west end of the same long terrace described previously. Pass underneath the start of Great Expectations and follow the terrace back east for 300’ to the start of the route. Approach time is 40-45 minutes (10 minutes past Epinephrine).

Protection

2x from small to 1” (Aliens or other flexible-stem cams work best). Optional #1 Camalot. Double set of wires. 70m rope. Nut tool for the leader is helpful for cleaning out placements on P2 which can sometimes collect little scrub oak leaves after spring storms.

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

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