The Rube Goldberg
5.12- PG13 trad · 4 pitches · 350 ft · ★★★★
Route 6 of 6 from left to right on Mustang Wall, with Mustang Corner on its left. Mustang Wall has 6 routes, from 5.10+ to 5.12a; 1 is harder.
First ascent: unknown
Description
This is an excellent, techy rock climb up the beautiful brown face right of Mustang Cracks. A rewarding route that will humble those that have failed to dial-in their nutcraft prior to launch.
Location
Start with the scrambly first pitch of Mustang Cracks or just right on Huckleberries.
Protection
Stoppers & Lil’ Cammers. Lots. Something like this: Pitch 2: Blue Alien, Black Alien, #7 BD, #5 BD, #6 BD, #10 BD, #9 BD, #8 BD, #8 BD, #7 BD, #7 BD, Anchor Pitch 3: #7 Astro, #5 BD, Grey Alien w/ Sling, Bolt, #6 BD, #6 BD, #5 Micro, #6 Micro, #5 BD, #4 BD, #9 BD, #8 BD, #8 BD, 0.5 Camalot, Anchor. Pitch 4: Bolt, Yellow Alien, Blue Alien, Green Alien, 3-4 Wires, 3x Bolts, Red Alien, Anchor
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Mustang Wall
- Mustang Corner 5.11d
- The Dragon 5.11a
- Pegasus 5.12a
- Mustang Cracks 5.10d
- Burros Gone Wild 5.10+