The Dragon
5.11a trad · 5 pitches · 460 ft · ★★★☆
Route 1 of 6 from left to right on Mustang Wall, with Burros Gone Wild on its right. Mustang Wall has 6 routes, from 5.10+ to 5.12a; 3 are harder.
First ascent: unknown
Description
The Dragon is a fantastic climb up the massive corner system on the left side of the Mustang Wall. Unusual for Red Rocks, this route features sections of physical crack climbing on every pitch and excellent rock. It is consistent in difficulty, with the exception of a brief slab crux (the higher traverse following bolts with black hangers). This crux can be avoided by taking a natural but circuitous variation (the lower traverse following bolts with tan hangers): at 5.10-, it is easier but can create rope drag (intermediate belay on the Pegasus ledge recommended). Sure to be a classic; the tedious approach through the desert from the Black Velvet parking lot is all that keeps this thing from having lines on it like the other great routes in Red Rocks. Begin just above a spindly, twisted pine tree just up and left from the black crack that marks the start of Pegasus. A landmark is the curving, right-facing white flake halfway up the first pitch. Do not start below a lone, low bolt in a right facing corner - this is an off-route bolt and is much too far left.
Protection
1x small to 0.75 Camalot. 2x #1 to #4 Camalot. Optional wired stoppers. 70m rope.
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Mustang Wall
- Mustang Corner 5.11d
- Pegasus 5.12a
- Mustang Cracks 5.10d
- Burros Gone Wild 5.10+
- The Rube Goldberg 5.12- PG13