Mustang Corner
5.11d trad · 80 ft · ★★★★
Route 5 of 6 from left to right on Mustang Wall, with Mustang Cracks on its left and The Rube Goldberg on its right. Mustang Wall has 6 routes, from 5.10+ to 5.12a; 2 are harder.
First ascent: Unknown.
Description
This is the obvious direct version of the third pitch of Mustang Cracks. Instead of avoiding the corner - commit to it. Historically and easily top roped, Mustang Corner protects nicely with many small stoppers and RP's - although the pro isn't always perfect and stances for placing it can be tenuous, with patience a leader should be able to get something reliable in every body-length or two. The movement is absolutely classic - you'll be stoked to do this pitch!
Protection
1 set of cams from tiny to 0.75 Camalot. 1 set of stoppers. 2-3x sets RP's. I didn't find offsets useful but I did enjoy having a variety of different types of pro (authentic RP's, BD Micro Stoppers, and Metolius Astro Nuts).
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Mustang Wall
- The Dragon 5.11a
- Pegasus 5.12a
- Mustang Cracks 5.10d
- Burros Gone Wild 5.10+
- The Rube Goldberg 5.12- PG13