Burros Gone Wild

5.10+ trad · 4 pitches · 420 ft · ★★☆☆

Route 2 of 6 from left to right on Mustang Wall, with The Dragon on its left and Pegasus on its right. Mustang Wall has 6 routes, from 5.10+ to 5.12a; 5 are harder.

First ascent: Joshua Janes & Sawyer Bullock - Winter 2017

Description

Burros Gone Wild is a good ol' pitch of blue-collar struggle high on the Mustang Wall. It is more or less a variation to the finish of either The Dragon or Pegasus - climbing a flaring chimney created by a massive flake sandwiched between the upper parts of those routes. Kinda reminiscent of the Epinephrine chimneys but much harder. It's quite fun if you're into this sort of thing and the rock is clean and well-varnished.

Location

Mustang Wall. Begin on The Dragon or Pegasus. Climb inside the giant flake between those routes high on the wall.

Protection

1x small to #4 Camalot. Lots of runners or a few extra small/medium pieces to set up an intermediate belay.

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

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