Pegasus
5.12a trad · 4 pitches · 440 ft · ★★★☆
Route 3 of 6 from left to right on Mustang Wall, with Burros Gone Wild on its left and Mustang Cracks on its right. Mustang Wall has 6 routes, from 5.10+ to 5.12a; this is the hardest.
First ascent: unknown
Description
Pegasus weaves an elegant line up the wall to the right of the Dragon (which in turn follows the massive right-facing corner system that forms the left margin of the Mustang Wall). The first three pitches are high quality but the final crux pitch is the real prize: A spectacular splitter crack up a steep wall guarded by a brief section of thin face climbing. Scramble up a rib of rock to a small ledge just right of a tall, spindly fir tree and rack up at the base of a short crack in black rock.
Location
Far left end of the Mustang Wall near a spindly pine tree. About 80’ right of a massive right-facing corner system. Accessible via a 4th class scramble up a rib of rock along the base of the wall.
Protection
1x small to #2 Camalot 1 set of wired stoppers 70m rope minimum for rappeling
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Mustang Wall
- Mustang Corner 5.11d
- The Dragon 5.11a
- Mustang Cracks 5.10d
- Burros Gone Wild 5.10+
- The Rube Goldberg 5.12- PG13