The Hot Gates

5.6 top-rope · 30 ft · ★★☆☆

Route 21 of 21 from left to right on Civilization Crag, with Umayyad Caliphate on its left. Civilization Crag has 21 routes, from 5.4 to 5.11a; 15 are harder, and 4 others are the same grade.

First ascent: Andrew Tomko

Description

Squeeze chimney. Climbs gets a little narrow at the top but the crack can be exited from side nearest to the Umayyad Caliphate climb.

Location

Right behind Umayyad Caliphate.

Protection

Wide crack no pro, but can be TR'd.

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

More routes on Civilization Crag

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