Evil Empire

5.11a trad · 30 ft · ★★★☆

First ascent: Killis Howard

Description

Splitter at a sport crag. Reminiscent of Yin+Yang but thinner, more smearing, and much smaller pro. A good excuse to visit Civilization Crags and the best rock on the cliff. Not much real crack climbing on this one, more of a V3/4 boulder problem with good gear, but it's an exciting line that will reward those that are adept at placing pro quickly from smears. Worthwhile.

Location

The arching thin splitter above an offwidth flare sandwiched between Babylon 5.8 and Conquistador on the right side of the main wall. Shares anchor with Conquistador.

Protection

Cams tiny to #4, exact beta would kinda ruin the fun. Bringing 2 #00 TCUs is a good idea, I used a #9 nut but it's very optional. No long slings or trickery, just a few cams added to your sport kit.

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

More routes on Civilization Crag

• Super Tsardom 5.4
• The Hot Gates 5.6
• Sultans and Viziers 5.8
• Umayyad Caliphate 5.9+
• The Sun Never Sets 5.7
• The Three Kingdoms 5.7
• Silk Road 5.6
• East India Trading Co. 5.6
• Babylon 5.8 5.8
• This is Sparta 5.9
• Byzantium 5.10b
• Ming Dynasty 5.9+
• The Fall of Rome 5.10b
• Conquistador 5.10d
• Meerkat Manor 5.7
• The Mayan Pass 5.6
• Manifest Destiny 5.9+
• Mongol Hoarde 5.10a
• Five Charter Oath 5.8-
• Slava Ukraini! 5.6

Open the Red Rock climbing map · Is the rock dry? Live conditions