Meerkat Manor

5.7 trad · 80 ft · ★★☆☆

First ascent: unknown

Description

Fun little route that follows up the back side of Civilization. Can face climb with ample protectability, or slot yourself into a series of three chimney/small hands cracks. Not worth a hike in for, but if in the area and itching for a lil crack action, may be worth hitting up. Definitely must have been others who have done it before, but adding it because it's such a perfect moderate route with already placed chains for easy rap. NOTE* This route needs quite a bit of TLC and cleaning. Lots of fragile rock, be careful and mindful of rock quality for protection.

Location

From civilization wall, walk around right of the prominent arête. Follow the first moderate crack on the left that starts in a small chimney or follow up the cruiser seam on the slab on the right to enter the crack above the chimney.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 C4. End at a juicy belay ledge that eats up small cams for anchor. The belay ledge sits directly above Conquistador, so can easily rap off of those rings which are within arms reach from belay ledge.

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

More routes on Civilization Crag

Open the Red Rock climbing map · Is the rock dry? Live conditions