Open-and-Shut

5.10d trad · 50 ft · ★★★☆

Route 28 of 29 from left to right on North Face, with Closed on Monday on its left and Quarantine Crack on its right. North Face has 29 routes, from 5.8 to 5.12a/b; 9 are harder, and 4 others are the same grade.

First ascent: FRA: Josh Janes & Brendan Mulhern - October, 2020

Description

This is an excellent little pitch that has surely been top-roped from the Closed on Monday anchors, if not led, in the past. Together, the pair of routes is very worthwhile and would be a great warmup for Only the Good Die Young. Begin below a roof under the pretty, varnished, left-facing corner. Burly moves through the roof and getting established into the corner are the crux - once through it, have your belayer reach up and unclip any gear you placed here to prevent drag. Continue via enjoyable corner climbing and spaced, but excellent, gear. This route could really use a proper bolted anchor to spare the current tree anchor.

Location

A short scramble up the gully from Only the Good Die Young. Begin below a pretty, varnished, left-facing corner.

Protection

1x small to #2 Camalot.

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

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