Desert Wave

5.11b trad · 150 ft · ★★☆☆

Route 19 of 29 from left to right on North Face, with Archaeopteryx on its left and Amber on its right. North Face has 29 routes, from 5.8 to 5.12a/b; 6 are harder, and 1 other is the same grade.

First ascent: unknown

Description

This route climbs the center of a beautiful sweep of varnished stone perched above a series of bushy ledges between Triassic Sands and Wholesome Fullback. Scramble up a vegetated left-facing corner/gully and belay at the highest ledge beneath the wall. Alternatively, climb up a crack that is slightly cleaner about 20' further right and then bushwhack back left on the ledge. Climb the leftmost edge of the face with great caution (fragile rock but there is some pro available) until a first bolt can be clipped from a good foot ledge. From here, climb gently right across the face and follow four more bolts - flirting with the righthand arete - and mantle to the top of the face.

Protection

5 bolts and a single run of cams from micro to 0.75 Camalot. A 60m rope will get you back down to the ledge but from there you'll have to down climb or rap off scrub oak back to the ground. The anchor at the top of the route is terrible. Bring a length of cord/climbing rope to back it up. This route is much in need of a proper bolted anchor.

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

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