Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub)

5.12- trad · 3 pitches · 320 ft · ★★★★

Route 25 of 29 from left to right on North Face, with Tales from the Gripped on its left and Only the Good Die Young on its right. North Face has 29 routes, from 5.8 to 5.12a/b; 1 is harder.

First ascent: Unknown.

Description

Sustained, excellent technical climbing.

Location

Begin at the right edge of the wall at the entrance to the gully leading up to Only the Good Die Young.

Protection

1x 00 C3 to 0.75 Camalot, wires, RP's, and a #4 Camalot. 12 or more draws.

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

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