The Black Queen
5.12c sport · 50 ft · ★★★★
Route 3 of 5 from left to right on The Enclaves, with Saracen on its left and Joker's Wild on its right. The Enclaves has 5 routes, from 5.11b to 5.12c; this is the hardest.
First ascent: Unknown.
Description
As classic as it gets. Begin on Joker's Wild but immediately work left and up a series of left-leaning features. A crimpy crux leads to a wild finish making a big move (with big, but clean airtime if you blow it) to an incut near the top of the route. Clip the anchor then grab a jug over the lip; or grab the jug then clip the anchor.
Location
On the rightmost formation of the Enclaves; just right of the obvious smooth, black wall that is home to Saracen. From Saracen you can squeeze through a little cleft and hug the cliff around to the right to a nice varnished platform.
Protection
Bolts.
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on The Enclaves
- Saracen 5.12+
- Thin Deck 5.11b
- Joker's Wild 5.11b
- Albatross 5.12b R