Saracen
5.12+ trad · 50 ft · ★★★★
Route 2 of 5 from left to right on The Enclaves, with Albatross on its left and The Black Queen on its right. The Enclaves has 5 routes, from 5.11b to 5.12c; 2 are harder.
First ascent: unknown
Description
Saracen climbs the left edge of the nicest looking wall in the Enclaves proper. Immaculate varnish and relentless thin climbing with several cruxes characterize this short but worthy masterpiece. North facing, but even so you may wish to pick one of those fingers-numbing-out-on-the-warmup days to tackle this climb. Begin at the left edge of the wall. Clip a bolt, boulder up and step right to a finger-sized cam or stopper placement. From here work slightly left and up using sidepull slopers and then follow crimps back right across the wall (4x bolts). Move straight up past a horizontal (small cam) and finish with a satisfying mantle top out. Possibly harder for the short? Scramble down climber's right (quicker but a 5.2 move) or left.
Protection
5 draws, a finger-sized cam or stopper, and 1 or 2 small cams (00 TCU or Black Alien). Some extra gear to rig an anchor - including 20 or 30 feet of rope may be helpful.
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on The Enclaves
- Thin Deck 5.11b
- Joker's Wild 5.11b
- Albatross 5.12b R
- The Black Queen 5.12c