Albatross
5.12b R trad · 50 ft · ★★★★
Route 1 of 5 from left to right on The Enclaves, with Saracen on its right. The Enclaves has 5 routes, from 5.11b to 5.12c; 1 is harder.
First ascent: Unknown.
Description
Another classic Enclaves testpiece. Begin by clipping a bolt and doing a difficult move to get established on the face. More difficult moves (crux) lead left past two more bolts to the arete and a decent shake. Shift gears to trad-mode and climb with commitment past two horizontals and a tough finish. Probably more like PG13 if you get the gear in just right, but it is tricky and pumpy!
Location
On a northwest facing panel of nice black varnish tucked up in a gully to the east and above Saracen. From Saracen there's a bit of bushwhacking across and up the hillside to the left to get to it.
Protection
A few draws and gear from Grey Ghost to 1.5" size. Some stoppers/RP's might be nice. I used an offset Alien and the rare Butterscotch Alien. Yummy!
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on The Enclaves
- Saracen 5.12+
- Thin Deck 5.11b
- Joker's Wild 5.11b
- The Black Queen 5.12c