Spice
5.10c PG13 trad · 3 pitches · 320 ft · ★★★☆
Route 18 of 24 from left to right on Ginger Buttress, with The Ginger Buttress (full) on its left and Sugar on its right. Ginger Buttress has 24 routes, from 5.8 C2 to 5.12c; 8 are harder, and 1 other is the same grade.
First ascent: unknown
Description
Spice is a line of unknown origin that was rediscovered, documented, and given a name by Larry DeAngelo in the early 2000’s (see comment below). Recently it has been extended by another pitch to a logical conclusion higher on the wall. This final pitch, dubbed “The Pepperberry” is a great pitch of climbing that really adds to the route, both in terms of quality and difficulty. More traffic would really clean this route up - a great outing would be to do both this and its neighbor, Sugar, which is of similar difficulty and offers even better climbing. From the top of The Pepperberry finish, one can easily connect with the 4th pitch of Ginger Cracks if you want to continue with that route. Alternatively, one can rappel with a single 60m rope.
Location
Approximately 40' right of Ginger Cracks at a gully/corner just left of the low buttress where Sugar starts.
Protection
1-2x from small to #1 Camalot. Stoppers. A few larger cams are optional. 60m rope. All of the anchors have been improved with better hardware for descent. One unnecessary pro bolt on the second pitch was removed. All hardware is adequate as of 2019.
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Fastest Juniper Approach — Class 2
- Fastest Cloud & Ginger Approach — Class 2
- Ginger Cracks Approach — Class 2
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Ginger Buttress
- Snake Buttress 5.9+
- Dry Rub 5.10+
- Thyme Alone 5.8 C2
- Idiocracy 5.10
- Sugar 5.10d PG13
- Fist or Flips 5.10c
- Ginger Cracks 5.9
- Cayenne Corners 5.10d
- Waterstreak Chimney 5.8
- Unimpeachable Groping 5.10b
- Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) 5.9
- All You Can Eat 5.10d
- Power Failure 5.10
- Jack's Lament 5.8-
- Somewhere Over the Rainbow 5.11c
- Cumin Trafficking 5.10-
- Grab 'Em 5.11
- Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête) 5.10b PG13
- Like Tears in Rain 5.12c
- Salty Dog 5.10 PG13
- The Ginger Buttress (full) 5.10-
- The Life Aquatic 5.11 PG13
- Unintelligible Groaning 5.11a PG13