Like Tears in Rain
5.12c trad · 100 ft · ★★★★
Route 15 of 24 from left to right on Ginger Buttress, with Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) on its left and Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête) on its right. Ginger Buttress has 24 routes, from 5.8 C2 to 5.12c; this is the hardest.
First ascent: Unknown (maybe Roy Batty?)
Description
A sustained pitch of thin face climbing up a vertical-to-gently overhanging wall in an intimidating location. At first I thought it was just too hard, too crimpy, too fragile, too scary, too difficult to get to… but in the end Like Tears in Rain is undeniably good. So don the technician’s mantle, bring your crimper-crimpers, and summon some bravery... oh and one more thing: Wear kid gloves. This route has numerous thin, delicate holds. Feel free to dock it stars if you’re not cool with that, or better yet just stay away. But if you don’t climb like a bull in a china shop, maybe this route is for you.
Location
Finishing at Blade Runner’s dedicated rap anchor (draws can be hung while rapping from that route), Like Tears in Rain starts from the notch between the main wall and the little tower where Unimpeachable Groping tops out. It can be climbed directly after doing Unimpeachable or Ginger Cracks - just be careful getting to the first bolt.
Protection
10x Bolts and a #6 BD Stopper which protects an otherwise thrilling mantle between Bolts 4 & 5. Bolts 3 & 4 are tough clips; shoulder-length runners might be nice for these.
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Fastest Juniper Approach — Class 2
- Fastest Cloud & Ginger Approach — Class 2
- Ginger Cracks Approach — Class 2
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Ginger Buttress
- Snake Buttress 5.9+
- Dry Rub 5.10+
- Thyme Alone 5.8 C2
- Idiocracy 5.10
- Sugar 5.10d PG13
- Fist or Flips 5.10c
- Ginger Cracks 5.9
- Spice 5.10c PG13
- Cayenne Corners 5.10d
- Waterstreak Chimney 5.8
- Unimpeachable Groping 5.10b
- Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) 5.9
- All You Can Eat 5.10d
- Power Failure 5.10
- Jack's Lament 5.8-
- Somewhere Over the Rainbow 5.11c
- Cumin Trafficking 5.10-
- Grab 'Em 5.11
- Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête) 5.10b PG13
- Salty Dog 5.10 PG13
- The Ginger Buttress (full) 5.10-
- The Life Aquatic 5.11 PG13
- Unintelligible Groaning 5.11a PG13