Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête)
5.10b PG13 trad · 3 pitches · 350 ft · ★★★★
Route 16 of 24 from left to right on Ginger Buttress, with Like Tears in Rain on its left and The Ginger Buttress (full) on its right. Ginger Buttress has 24 routes, from 5.8 C2 to 5.12c; 10 are harder, and 1 other is the same grade.
First ascent: unknown
Description
High on the east face of Rainbow Mountain and just above Ginger Cracks is a striking, 350' knife-edge arête. Blade Runner - AKA The Ginger Arête - climbs this feature in three wild pitches. The line, which is easily visible from the highway (and unmistakable when illuminated by the morning sun), is both really fun climbing and, for those capable of climbing the grade, destined to become the natural finish to Ginger Cracks. Keep in mind, however, that this route is demanding: Though the hard moves are all well-protected, you don't get pro every body length. Also, as is the case with many routes in Red Rocks that haven't received much traffic, Blade Runner has quite a few fragile holds and thin, hollow flakes. The route will undoubtedly clean up with time, but the climbing will "feel" harder because the rock demands a light touch. Approach: Climb Ginger Cracks through pitch 5 to the beginning of the 4th class 6th pitch. Rather than scramble up to the start of the final corner, look right: Careful study of the arête will reveal a lone bolt about 25’ up. Begin here.
Protection
9x draws, a hand-sized cam or two, and at least a 60m rope.
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Fastest Juniper Approach — Class 2
- Fastest Cloud & Ginger Approach — Class 2
- Ginger Cracks Approach — Class 2
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Ginger Buttress
- Snake Buttress 5.9+
- Dry Rub 5.10+
- Thyme Alone 5.8 C2
- Idiocracy 5.10
- Sugar 5.10d PG13
- Fist or Flips 5.10c
- Ginger Cracks 5.9
- Spice 5.10c PG13
- Cayenne Corners 5.10d
- Waterstreak Chimney 5.8
- Unimpeachable Groping 5.10b
- Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) 5.9
- All You Can Eat 5.10d
- Power Failure 5.10
- Jack's Lament 5.8-
- Somewhere Over the Rainbow 5.11c
- Cumin Trafficking 5.10-
- Grab 'Em 5.11
- Like Tears in Rain 5.12c
- Salty Dog 5.10 PG13
- The Ginger Buttress (full) 5.10-
- The Life Aquatic 5.11 PG13
- Unintelligible Groaning 5.11a PG13