West Edge Lane
5.11d sport · 80 ft · 5 bolts, fixed anchor · ★★☆☆
Route 2 of 16 from left to right on The Monument, with Desert Gold on its left and Clipper on its right. The Monument has 16 routes, from 5.9 to 5.13a PG13; 5 are harder.
First ascent: unknown
Description
West Edge Lane takes the sharp arête directly below Desert Gold. It begins up Clipper (the dihedral to the right) and then moves left and flirts with the arête past 5 bolts to a chain anchor on a small ledge just below the first belay of Desert Gold. The crux is at the very top, but several difficult sections, often using fragile, small flakes, make this a challenging route. This route will become much more difficult/impossible if these holds break, so wear your kid gloves.
Protection
Five bolts and an anchor.
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Approach to The Monument — Class 2
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on The Monument
- Step Into The Squeezer 5.10-
- Cornucopia 5.10 PG13
- Chinese Handcuffs 5.12a
- All the Right Moves 5.11 R
- Papillon 5.12c PG13
- Headlamp Mechanics 5.9
- Handbone 5.10
- Clipper 5.11a
- Seduction Line 5.12a
- Brownline 5.10+
- Desert Gold 5.13a PG13
- Two in the Busch 5.9
- Lizard Locks 5.11
- Bone Saw 5.10a
- The Madcap Laughs 5.12 PG13