Seduction Line
5.12a trad · 90 ft · ★★★★
Route 7 of 16 from left to right on The Monument, with Papillon on its left and Handbone on its right. The Monument has 16 routes, from 5.9 to 5.13a PG13; 2 are harder, and 1 other is the same grade.
First ascent: Unknown.
Description
Several hundred yards to the right of Desert Gold is a beautiful streak of red varnish - easily visible as far away as the parking area. Hidden at the left edge of this streak is Seduction Line which, in my opinion, is the best 5.12- crack in Red Rocks. Approach by scrambling up a decomposing chimney with a chockstone and lone bolt, or by scrambling up as for Hand Bone and working back left on a precarious, loose ledge to the start of the corner. There is room to belay here, but little in the way of an anchor so make sure the leader gets some good gear in early. Begin just left of the corner by climbing easily up wedged flakes for 10 to 25' before transitioning back right into the corner - there are several opportunities to do this. Solid jams and liebacks lead to a resting stem box feature, then its game on: Lieback up the gradually narrowing crack until it is barely tips size (0 to 00 TCU's)... A few subtle features for the feet make stemming possible, but be prepared for a desperate 20' battle to the anchors. This route currently has one of the worst anchors I've seen in Red Rocks in a long time: Two very rusty quarter inchers. Beware. I put new quicklinks and rings on them, but these really should be replaced.
Protection
Double set from 00 TCU to 1 Camalot. Extra 0.4 Camalots. A 70m rope allows rapping from the anchor past the belay ledge and on down to the approach ledge below.
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Approach to The Monument — Class 2
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on The Monument
- Step Into The Squeezer 5.10-
- Cornucopia 5.10 PG13
- Chinese Handcuffs 5.12a
- All the Right Moves 5.11 R
- Papillon 5.12c PG13
- Headlamp Mechanics 5.9
- Handbone 5.10
- Clipper 5.11a
- Brownline 5.10+
- Desert Gold 5.13a PG13
- Two in the Busch 5.9
- Lizard Locks 5.11
- West Edge Lane 5.11d
- Bone Saw 5.10a
- The Madcap Laughs 5.12 PG13