Papillon
5.12c PG13 trad · 3 pitches · 300 ft · ★★★★
Route 6 of 16 from left to right on The Monument, with The Madcap Laughs on its left and Seduction Line on its right. The Monument has 16 routes, from 5.9 to 5.13a PG13; 1 is harder.
First ascent: Unknown.
Description
This route is an amazing journey and one of the best climbs in Red Rocks. Start just left of Seduction Line. Belayer can stand on a chockstone at the top of a loose chimney.
Protection
2x Green Aliens, Blue X4’s, or #1 TCU’s… whatever you have as long as they are slightly smaller than 0.3 Camalots. 2x 0.3 to #1 Camalots Wired Stoppers RP’s Many Draws and Slings Double Ropes or a 70m rope A Skilled and Affirming Belayer The two ascents I know of prior to mine employed double ropes on the first pitch. I used a single rope but tied into both ends, dropping one end about a third of the way up. The point is be very mindful of rope drag on pitch 1.
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Approach to The Monument — Class 2
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on The Monument
- Step Into The Squeezer 5.10-
- Cornucopia 5.10 PG13
- Chinese Handcuffs 5.12a
- All the Right Moves 5.11 R
- Headlamp Mechanics 5.9
- Handbone 5.10
- Clipper 5.11a
- Seduction Line 5.12a
- Brownline 5.10+
- Desert Gold 5.13a PG13
- Two in the Busch 5.9
- Lizard Locks 5.11
- West Edge Lane 5.11d
- Bone Saw 5.10a
- The Madcap Laughs 5.12 PG13