My Little Pony
5.11d trad · 7 pitches · 1,000 ft · ★★★☆
Route 22 of 28 from left to right on Black Velvet Wall, with Sour Mash on its left and Velveeta on its right. Black Velvet Wall has 28 routes, from 5.9 to 5.11d; this is the hardest.
First ascent: Paul Van Betten, Richard Harrison, and Shelby Shelton - 1990
Description
This phenomenal route has fallen into obscurity - perhaps due to lack of information - but it should not be missed by those interested in something more unusual and difficult than the standard Black Velvet fare.
Protection
A single set of cams from blue Alien to #3 Camalot, wires (include a few offsets and larger RP's). Two ropes for a safe descent. It is possible to rap down the route with a single 70m rope, but you'll need quicklinks for the bolted anchor and extra tat for the anchor above the crux pitch.
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Black Velvet Peak Descent Route — Class 3
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Black Velvet Wall
- Epinephrine 5.9
- Sour Mash 5.10a
- Dream of Wild Turkeys 5.10a
- Malicious Mischief 5.9 R
- Prince of Darkness 5.10c
- Sourpuss 5.11a
- Velveeta 5.11a R
- Norepinephrine 5.10b PG13
- Refried Brains 5.9
- Rock Warrior 5.10b R
- Sandstone Samurai 5.11a X
- Cutting Edge 5.11c PG13
- Smooth as Silk 5.10d PG13
- Steel Monkey 5.10+
- Fiddler on the Roof 5.10+
- Spark Plug 5.10b
- Yellow Brick Road 5.10b
- The Gobbler 5.10-
- Epi Arete 5.9+
- The Fiddler Roof 5.10
- Overhanging Hangover 5.10a
- Jugs on Drugs 5.9+
- American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) 5.10 PG13
- Johnny Come Lately 5.10+
- A Dream of Ultraviolet Unicorns 5.10b/c
- Hybrid Drive 5.10b
- Old Fashioned 5.11c