Malicious Mischief
5.9 R trad · 6 pitches · 720 ft · ★★☆☆
Route 25 of 28 from left to right on Black Velvet Wall, with Sourpuss on its left and Norepinephrine on its right. Black Velvet Wall has 28 routes, from 5.9 to 5.11d; 25 are harder, and 2 others are the same grade.
First ascent: Joe Herbst, Stephanie Petrilak, Mike Gilbert - May 1978.
Description
Malicious Mischief is the analog crack to the Epinephrine chimneys. Despite being one of the most obvious lines in all of Black Velvet Canyon, it doesn't see much traffic - probably because the stunning crux pitch has a reputation for being dangerous. This reputation is well-deserved. The first 50' of the crack are 12-16" and nearly unprotectable - a fall would probably result in serious injury or death. The good news is the climbing is much easier than the grade given (5.10c) in recent guidebooks and, excepting breaking a hold, chances of blowing it are low. If you got really spooked I think you could try to burrow into the crack itself... though this would certainly not be the easiest way to climb it?
Location
The crack that forms the left side of the Black Tower, opposite Epinephrine.
Protection
1 each small to #5 Camalot. 2 each 0.5 to #2 Camalot. 1x Valley Giant 9 or Merlin 8 or similar large cam.
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Black Velvet Peak Descent Route — Class 3
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Black Velvet Wall
- Epinephrine 5.9
- Sour Mash 5.10a
- Dream of Wild Turkeys 5.10a
- Prince of Darkness 5.10c
- Sourpuss 5.11a
- Velveeta 5.11a R
- Norepinephrine 5.10b PG13
- Refried Brains 5.9
- Rock Warrior 5.10b R
- Sandstone Samurai 5.11a X
- Cutting Edge 5.11c PG13
- Smooth as Silk 5.10d PG13
- My Little Pony 5.11d
- Steel Monkey 5.10+
- Fiddler on the Roof 5.10+
- Spark Plug 5.10b
- Yellow Brick Road 5.10b
- The Gobbler 5.10-
- Epi Arete 5.9+
- The Fiddler Roof 5.10
- Overhanging Hangover 5.10a
- Jugs on Drugs 5.9+
- American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) 5.10 PG13
- Johnny Come Lately 5.10+
- A Dream of Ultraviolet Unicorns 5.10b/c
- Hybrid Drive 5.10b
- Old Fashioned 5.11c