Johnny Come Lately
5.10+ sport · 120 ft · 12 bolts · ★★★☆
Route 20 of 28 from left to right on Black Velvet Wall, with Overhanging Hangover on its left and Sour Mash on its right. Black Velvet Wall has 28 routes, from 5.9 to 5.11d; 17 are harder, and 5 others are the same grade.
First ascent: unknown
Description
Johnny Come Lately is an excellent one-pitch face climb with interesting moves up nice features. Begin on a ledge accessible from some 4th-class climbing and climb just right of the first pitch of Overhanging Hangover, directly below the biggest part of the Fiddler on the Roof. Depending on the year and season, holds can, unfortunately, be littered with swallow droppings. Rap 35m (it is possible to continue up Overhanging Hangover if you so desire).
Protection
A dozen draws and slings or so. A 70m cord or two ropes.
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Black Velvet Peak Descent Route — Class 3
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Black Velvet Wall
- Epinephrine 5.9
- Sour Mash 5.10a
- Dream of Wild Turkeys 5.10a
- Malicious Mischief 5.9 R
- Prince of Darkness 5.10c
- Sourpuss 5.11a
- Velveeta 5.11a R
- Norepinephrine 5.10b PG13
- Refried Brains 5.9
- Rock Warrior 5.10b R
- Sandstone Samurai 5.11a X
- Cutting Edge 5.11c PG13
- Smooth as Silk 5.10d PG13
- My Little Pony 5.11d
- Steel Monkey 5.10+
- Fiddler on the Roof 5.10+
- Spark Plug 5.10b
- Yellow Brick Road 5.10b
- The Gobbler 5.10-
- Epi Arete 5.9+
- The Fiddler Roof 5.10
- Overhanging Hangover 5.10a
- Jugs on Drugs 5.9+
- American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) 5.10 PG13
- A Dream of Ultraviolet Unicorns 5.10b/c
- Hybrid Drive 5.10b
- Old Fashioned 5.11c