The Calanque
5.12a sport · 70 ft · 10 bolts, fixed anchor · ★☆☆☆
Route 8 of 11 from left to right on Wall of Confusion, with Fear and Loathing, III on its left and Resin Rose on its right. Wall of Confusion has 11 routes, from 5.10b to 5.12b; 2 are harder, and 1 other is the same grade.
First ascent: Unknown.
Description
This route begins opposite Makulu and Super Guide up in the alcove at the right end of the Wall of Confusion. The first half of the route climbs interesting features up a vertical face to a break beneath a steeper headwall. From this break, follow the left line of bolts to a bolted anchor. This route has an alarming number of portable holds but it will likely improve with more traffic.
Protection
10 or so bolts.
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Wall of Confusion
- The Runaway 5.10b
- Makalu 5.11d
- Desert Pickle 5.11c
- Resin Rose 5.11d
- American Sportsman 5.10b
- Big Damage 5.12b
- Super Guide 5.11a
- Promises in the Dark 5.12b
- Fear and Loathing, III 5.12a
- Sudden Impact 5.11d