Resin Rose
5.11d trad · 60 ft · ★★☆☆
Route 9 of 11 from left to right on Wall of Confusion, with The Calanque on its left and Makalu on its right. Wall of Confusion has 11 routes, from 5.10b to 5.12b; 4 are harder, and 2 others are the same grade.
First ascent: Paul Crawford & Jay Smith - April, 1987
Description
I almost want to give this 3 stars, but since the route is pretty dirty and most people aren't really into this sort of thing, I'm not sure I can in good conscience. If you do like wide crack/chimney problems, Resin Rose should be on your Red Rocks tick list. Begin in the alcove a short scramble up and right from Fear and Loathing and climb the obvious crack. Fairly easy climbing through guano leads up into the bowels of this beast where a fixed wire and sling provide crux pro. From here, all but the smallest of 12 year old OW aficionados will have to climb down and outwards across the bottomless maw before once again worming upwards to a thank god jug/handjam and gear. The fall from the crux is spectacular, scary, but seemingly quite safe. Continue more easily up the steep crack to more bird crap and an annoying anchor shared with the sport climb on the right. Beware of sharp edges if you choose to lower (it might be better to rap).
Protection
Ignore the recommendations of 5" and 8" pieces. A double set to #2 Camalot is perfect. Anything bigger will undoubtedly get in your way. Long pants and some handi wipes would not go unappreciated.
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Wall of Confusion
- The Runaway 5.10b
- Makalu 5.11d
- The Calanque 5.12a
- Desert Pickle 5.11c
- American Sportsman 5.10b
- Big Damage 5.12b
- Super Guide 5.11a
- Promises in the Dark 5.12b
- Fear and Loathing, III 5.12a
- Sudden Impact 5.11d