Midnight Oil
5.11a R trad · 180 ft · ★★☆☆
Route 16 of 23 from left to right on North Face, with Masquerade on its left and Bros Before Holes on its right. North Face has 23 routes, from 5.7 to 5.11d; 1 is harder.
First ascent: Richard Harrison, Paul Crawford, Randy Marsh - 1983
Description
This is a fine pitch that doesn't see much traffic - but it should. It's a bit dirty, and the cruxes are brief, but the climbing is fun from top to bottom. Begin in the juggy corner just left of Bro's. Climb this corner to a ledge, clip a Z-pin (or not... other, better gear exists nearby) and execute a cruxy reach and mantle. Continue mantling up ledges (run out) to regain the corner which is followed to a bolt. One more move here leads to more jugs up the steep corner and an anchor on the right.
Protection
1x small to #4 Camalot, Wires. 2x ropes needed to get down.
Access
Timed-entry reservation required to enter the Scenic Drive October to May.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone is fragile when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt.
More routes on North Face
- Texas Longneck 5.8+
- Saucerful of Secrets 5.11+
- Brain Drain 5.10
- Chocolate Flakes 5.10+
- Bros Before Holes 5.10c
- Magic Triangle 5.9 R
- Birthday Party 5.10 R
- Masquerade 5.10+
- Honeycomb Chimney 5.9
- Bottle Bill 5.9
- Andy & Jason's Mediocre Adventure 5.8
- Five Pack 5.10b
- Community Pillar 5.9
- Small Purchase 5.10a/b
- Advanced Placement 5.9
- Five and Dime 5.10+
- Edge of the Sun 5.10c
- Cartwright Corner 5.10
- Dark and Long 5.11d
- Community Party Chimney 5.8
- Fido the Dragon 5.7
- Unknown 5.8