Dark and Long
5.11d trad · 150 ft · ★★★☆
Route 9 of 23 from left to right on North Face, with Chocolate Flakes on its left and Five and Dime on its right. North Face has 23 routes, from 5.7 to 5.11d; this is the hardest.
First ascent: Bob Goodwin & Jerry Handren - January 2006
Description
This is a great crack climb that is up in the same alcove as Saucerful of Secrets. While you're up there, you may as well do this one too, but both my partner and I felt that it was more difficult than Saucerful of Secrets which we thought was grossly over-graded. Begin in the ledgy area two pitches (300') up Cartwright Corner. Climb a leaning crack which becomes a difficult tube-like feature before pulling a 4' roof at the top. Belay 20' higher in a horizontal crack, or continue way up and move left to a bolted rap station.
Protection
Double set to #1 Camalot. Wires.
Access
Timed-entry reservation required to enter the Scenic Drive October to May.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone is fragile when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt.
More routes on North Face
- Texas Longneck 5.8+
- Saucerful of Secrets 5.11+
- Brain Drain 5.10
- Chocolate Flakes 5.10+
- Bros Before Holes 5.10c
- Magic Triangle 5.9 R
- Birthday Party 5.10 R
- Masquerade 5.10+
- Honeycomb Chimney 5.9
- Bottle Bill 5.9
- Andy & Jason's Mediocre Adventure 5.8
- Five Pack 5.10b
- Community Pillar 5.9
- Small Purchase 5.10a/b
- Advanced Placement 5.9
- Five and Dime 5.10+
- Edge of the Sun 5.10c
- Midnight Oil 5.11a R
- Cartwright Corner 5.10
- Community Party Chimney 5.8
- Fido the Dragon 5.7
- Unknown 5.8