The Glass Half Full
5.12c trad · 110 ft · ★★★☆
Route 4 of 13 from left to right on Blood Wall, with Bad Blood on its left and Venipuncture on its right. Blood Wall has 13 routes, from 5.7 to 5.12c; this is the hardest.
First ascent: unknown
Description
This is the extension to the short route called Glass Half Empty. It effectively doubles the length of that route, adding some fantastic climbing with no real increase in difficulty. Almost fully bolted - just bring a medium stopper (I used a BD #9) to tame a run out between the first and second bolts of the extension. Begin with very thin climbing (crux fingerlock-pinch at the fourth bolt) and continue past the anchor through some beautiful varnish and somewhat sporty bolt spacing to a shared anchor with Bad Blood. The final bolt is equipped so as to help with cleaning the pitch. NB: Be gentle yarding on the righthand undercling flake at the start.
Protection
12-13x draws and a medium (#9 BD) stopper. 70m rope to get down.
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Blood Wall
- Impulse 5.10- PG13
- Slow Bleed 5.11a
- Venipuncture 5.12
- Blood Meridian 5.11d
- Crack McMuffin 5.7
- Bush League 5.9
- The Main Vein 5.12+
- Seppuku 5.11a/b
- Bloodbath 5.9
- Transfusion 5.10b
- OW Negative 5.9 C2+
- Bad Blood 5.11