Blood Meridian

5.11d trad · 110 ft · ★★★☆

Route 8 of 13 from left to right on Blood Wall, with Seppuku on its left and OW Negative on its right. Blood Wall has 13 routes, from 5.7 to 5.12c; 3 are harder.

First ascent: unknown

Description

Blood Meridian is a fun route up nearly perfect rock on the right side of the upper tier of the Blood Wall. The route breaks down into three sections separated by good rests: First warmup 5.10 climbing through huecos to escape some lichen to a ledge. Then, cruxy climbing passing three bolts to a dramatic finish and a good recovery stance. And finally, great 5.11- climbing with spaced but bomber gear up twin seams to a high anchor. Be it climbed for it's own sake or as a warmup for Venipuncture or the Main Vein, this route is a gem.

Location

Climbs the narrow panel of nice rock between Seppuku and OW Negative.

Protection

1x 000 C3 to #1 Camalot 2x 0.3, 0.4 Camalot Wires & RP's 70m rope

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

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