The Long Riders
5.12- trad · 90 ft · ★★★☆
Route 3 of 11 from left to right on Mud Spring Wing, with Gadgers Edge on its left and Mito on its right. Mud Spring Wing has 11 routes, from 5.7 to 5.12c; 1 is harder, and 1 other is the same grade.
First ascent: Paul Van Betten & Jay Smith
Description
The Long Riders is a great pitch of difficult trad climbing with engaging movement and gear. Begin in the righthand of two left-facing corners that are located on the left end of the Mud Spring Wing immediately left of a massive, low roof. Trundle up a hand crack to a loose ledge and begin climbing. In two spots (near a white rock scar) one can depart the corner itself by climbing the face to the left - however the natural line and protection opportunities will keep you returning to the corner. A narrow ledge at 2/3 height affords a rest before a difficult stemming crux above very small gear (000 C3's and brass) to a finger lock. Above this a short stretch of "athletic" liebacks and stems leads to a bolted anchor. Note that there used to be an old (bail?) anchor on the sloping ledge immediately below the crux but it has been removed. Also, I speculated (incorrectly - see comment below) that this route was originally protected with a piton or two. Without them the climbing is spicy and committing but I am reluctant to say the pitch is objectively dangerous if you're crafty with small gear.
Protection
A single set from 0.3 Camalot to #4 Camalot plus as many 000 C3's as you can find. I had two, but four would not go unused. Black Aliens, grey TCU's, and 0.1 Camalots are all just a touch too big. Also, bring RP's.
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Mud Spring Wing
- Spirit Air 5.11c
- Mito 5.8
- Gadgers Edge 5.12c
- Fingers in the Honeypot 5.12 PG13
- Man of the People 5.11a
- Beautiful Bastard 5.10
- The Schwa 5.10d
- Schwalli 5.9
- The Jagged Edge 5.11b
- Schwallow 5.7